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Barely Legal Seafood

Lemon Butter Sauce is a euphemism for lousy quality in the industrial food service industry, and if you hanker to meet industrial food service with all of its euphemisms, you could not do better than to plan a visit to Legal Seafood. The name hints at the niche: that space just south of indictable but north of convictable. It's legal, but barely. Full disclosure, probably to be mandated by some future judicial ruling, will doubtless require a slight name change to Barely Legal Seafood.

I ordered the Woodfired Seafood Combo, breaking a personal rule to avoid ordering anything advertised as a combo, but it was late and it seemed the simplest alternative. The wedge salad was fine.

The sword, tuna, and Atlantic salmon came guarded by shrimp and scallops "grilled" employing a remarkable method which apparently infuses in lemon butter sauce on a wood grill. Absolutely infused. These babies drooled all over the fish, which itself seemed to have been wood-fired in lemon butter sauce, and were not simply well-done, but well past retirement age.

Finish the presentation with steamed broccoli in poochichi sauce (an old Filipino favorite I didn't know anyone in this country even knew how to make) and a thrice-baked potato that looked as if it had survived a bar fight and was on the lam from a restraining order.

Okay, I ate it anyway. (Except for the spud, which was just ... too... threatening to touch.) It was late. I was tired. And hungry.

My wife fared better. She had the lobster, which she reported as serviceable, served on a bed of cold, sandy clams and dehydrated mussels with a small hunk of 'not bad' corn on the cob and what looked like a wood fired weenie, also probably infused with Lemon Butter Sauce. (We know what THAT means.) The weenie went back with the sandy shellfish.

We will not go back.

I'd eaten at Legal Seafood in Boston before it was a chain, and liked it fine. But it's a chain now. Then, the ambience was wood and conversation. Now, it's naugahyde and noise. It's pretty clear that some efficiency experts have had their way with this operation. I am confident only that the food is now cost-effective, the operation profitable, and the small crimes committed with each course, Legal, though barely.


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